What a Full Roost Vans Build Looks Like

What a Full Roost Vans Build Looks Like

Every once in a while we finish a van that’s a really good example of what a complete Roost build looks like when you stack everything together the way we intended it.

A recent 2024 AWD Transit is one of those vans.

Instead of walking you through it panel by panel, I want to zoom out a little and show you what’s actually happening underneath the pretty parts, because that’s what matters.

A full build isn’t just cabinets and a bed, it starts with the Core.

The Core Build

I say this a lot, the Core Build is like sheetrock in a house and everything underneath.

Our Core includes:

  • Mounting System
  • Electric
  • Insulation
  • Wiring 
  • Flooring
  • Upper, Mid, and Lower Paneling
  • Vent fan, windows, power station and heater

At the center of that is our: Smooth Rail Mounting System

Everything mounts to it:

If you want to add something later, you’re not drilling random holes into your van and hoping for the best. We built it this way because people need change, and we don’t like building vans that paint you into a corner.

Power

Here’s where people either overspend or underthink: Power.

In a full build like this one, we scaled it up to power and include:

  • 800 amp-hours of battery to power an autonomous Dometic RTX 2000 air conditioner
  • Engine, Shore power, and Solar charging
  • Victron monitoring
  • Espar heater

All of that runs through our: Power Panel

The idea behind the Power Panel is simple… bring all your wiring to one centralized spot so it’s clean and expandable.

It’s not magic… You still have to wire things correctly. But the heavy lifting is done and you’re not creating a spaghetti monster behind your cabinets. If you want a deeper dive into how we think about batteries, solar, and what actually drains power, I wrote a full piece on it here: Deep Thoughts: On Power in a Van 

Most people don’t need as much battery as they think they do. Unless you want to run A/C off-grid for hours. Then we need to talk.

Interior of a camper van with oak plywood overhead cabinets, a small desk, and built‑in lighting along the wall edge.

Paneling

There was a time when van paneling meant three weekends, a YouTube tutorial, and a lot of regret. We don’t do that anymore. Our paneling integrates with the Smooth Rail Mounting System so you can remove a panel later without tearing apart the van.

Upper, mid, lower: finished bamboo, unfinished bamboo, HexPly, fabric wrap… whatever direction you want to go.

In this build, we paired HexPly flooring with powder-coated trim and Minicel underneath. It’s durable, serviceable, inexpensive, finished, and best of all, it doesn’t squeak.

If you want the full rant on paneling, it’s here: Roost Vans Thoughts on Paneling

Short version: it should be clean and serviceable. Not traumatic.

Cabinetry

Once the Core is in, cabinetry becomes easy, because it’s mounting to something intentional.

In a full build like this, that can include:

Driver Side Kitchen Cabinet

Drawer Cabinet

Upper Cabinetry

We often upgrade to stranded (fossilized) bamboo countertops. They hold up, and they look good. We hide kickplate drawers in the base cabinets because there is nothing worse than wasted space in a van.

Everything ties back to the van rail system. So if something needs to change later, it can.

Sleep

Beds in vans tend to take over, ours doesn’t.

The Fu-Kit Bed System paired with our Mattress can be configured two-panel, two-and-a-half, or three-panel. You can also add our Flip-Up Kit, which gives you a sofa and garage access. Plus you gain 24” of counter top space on each side.

Keep it Simple Stupid

This build runs a 20-gallon over-the-wheel-well tank with interior fill:

  • No unnecessary holes punched in the van body.
  • Fresh water monitoring.
  • Battery monitoring.
  • Pump switch.

= Straightforward.

For toilets, we stick with the Loo Bench.

Paired with the Stansport EasyGo Loo. We like this option because there are no chemicals. no composting fans pulling power 24/7, and no diaper-genie situations.

If you want the long explanation of why we don’t overcomplicate toilets, it’s here:
Roost Vans Thoughts on Toilets in Vans <link to blog

Most people just need a place to pee at 2 a.m. Let’s not turn it into a science experiment.

Climate Control

With 800 amp-hours and proper charging, we can run:

  • Dometic RTX 2000 A/C
  • Espar heater

Heating and cooling are only complicated if the power system isn’t designed for it. When it is, it just works.

Full Build

A full Roost build isn’t about cramming every possible feature into a van.

It’s about layering systems correctly:

  • Rail system
  • Power infrastructure
  • Modular paneling
  • Intentional cabinetry
  • Flexible bed system
  • Right-sized water system
  • Simple toilet solution

Everything builds on the previous layer. That’s what you’re seeing in this Transit. It’s not flashy for the sake of being flashy. It’s built so you can use it… Fix it… Upgrade it… And not be scared of it.

We’ve embedded the full walkthrough video below so you can see how all of this actually comes together in a real van.

If you’re thinking about a phased build, a DIY install, or having us do a full conversion, this is a solid example of what’s possible.

You can explore all of our systems and products at: roostvans.com

Build it simple.
Build it serviceable.
Then go use it.

Why Choose Roost Vans for Your Van needs?

Why Choose Roost Vans for Your Van needs?

There are a lot of ways to build out a van.

Some people go fully DIY. Some hand it off completely. Many end up somewhere in between in a hybrid approach wanting help with the hard parts, but still wanting ownership over the build.

Roost fits all of these models. And that’s what makes us unique.

Start With the Hard Stuff

If you’re staring at an empty van wondering where to begin, the answer usually isn’t cabinetry or finishes, it’s infrastructure: That’s what our Core Build is for.

We bring your van into our three-bay shop in Portland, Oregon, and handle the parts that are difficult to redo later:

By the time you drive away, the van is quieter, more solid, and ready to build on further.

From there, you can take it as far as you want yourself. Some people come back for cabinetry. Others finish it on their own. Both routes work, because the foundation is already done right.

The System Everything Is Built On

At the center of every Roost build is the Smooth Rail Mounting System.

It’s not just a place to bolt things down. It’s a fully integrated structure tied into the chassis of the van. Everything mounts to it: beds, cabinets, accessories. That’s what allows the entire interior to stay secure while still being flexible.

If you’ve ever seen builds that rely on L-track or surface-mounted hardware, you already know the limitations. Challenging hardware, incremental positioning, and additional reinforcement required.

We’ve written more about that here: Smooth Rail vs. L-Track, What’s the Difference?

The short version: this system exists so your build isn’t just attached. It’s actually engineered.

Built for Flexibility, Not Permanence

Most van builds lock you into one layout, while Roost Vans does the opposite.

Because everything ties back to the mounting system, you can swap out cabinetry, reconfigure your layout, remove components entirely, and upgrade over time.

That matters more than people think. Because how you use your van in month one usually isn’t how you’ll use it in year two.

In-Shop Builds That Mirror DIY

One of the biggest differences with Roost is that we’re not building one-off custom interiors that only exist in our shop.

We’re installing the same products we sell.

  • Same cabinetry
  • Same bed systems
  • Same mounting system
  • Same paneling

So whether you have us install everything or you take parts home and do it yourself, you’re working within the same ecosystem. There’s little disconnect between a professional build and a DIY build.

This also gives us a built-in quality control loop. Every van we build in-house is a real-world test of the products going out the door to our DIY customers.

Wood cabinet doors propped on a warehouse shelf, labeled FBAM Upper Cabinet Doors (Sprinter) and Upper Cabinet Bottoms (Sprinter).

Why It Exists in the First Place

Roost didn’t start as a design trend or a product line; it started with a problem.

Our founder Dennis saw an RV accident that made one thing really clear: most interiors aren’t built with real structure in mind. When something goes wrong, everything inside becomes a liability. That stuck.

So the focus from the beginning became simple. Build van interiors that are secure, intentional, and actually tied into the vehicle. Not just for looks, not just for convenience, but for safety.

Built With Real Use in Mind

Everything we do, from materials to mounting to layout, comes back to how these vans are actually used.

We partner with local and domestic manufacturers for steel and wood components. We do a lot of our finishing and sanding in-house, using Osmo Polyx, a hard wax product that’s ecology-friendly and won’t outgas when your van heats up. Since it’s safe for baby toys, it’s safe and robust for a van interior. We engineer products that hold up to heat, movement, and time. Our products are designed to be lived in.

So, Why Choose Roost?

If you want a fully custom build with no flexibility, there are plenty of options out there.

If you want to DIY everything from scratch, that’s always on the table too.

But if you want a van that starts with a solid, engineered foundation, gives you flexibility to build over time, uses high-quality stress proven components in well over 100 van builds, and keeps safety at the center of the design; that’s what we do.

Start with the Core Build, then buy DIY our products, or build your own, or have us install them as a main build, or find some combination of all the above.

Either way, you’re building on a system that’s designed to last.

Ready to elevate your van life? Visit us at roostvans.com and see how we can help you with your adventures! 

Check out our other social channels here: https://linktr.ee/roostvans.com

Starting Your Van Journey? Start Here

Starting Your Van Journey? Start Here

So… you’ve got the idea. You want a van build, but now what?

This page is your Roost Vans roadmap: from first thought to the first time you roll it out of your driveaway. We’ve compiled a list of blogs and videos that help you with the decisions that actually matter, in the order they matter.

 

Step 1: Start Planning (Before You Buy Anything)

Start Planning Your Van Build | Roost Vans Shop Space

Before you touch a van, you need a plan. This is where most people skip ahead, and regret it later. And another thing…

Pick the Right Camper Van Chassis For You

Key takeaway:
Everything builds on your initial decisions. If those are wrong, everything downstream gets harder.

Step 2: Understand the Build Process

02 The Build Process | Roost Vans Webinar

This is the high-level overview most people never get.

What this covers:

  • Core Build vs full build
  • Order of operations
  • Where people waste time and money

 

Step 3: Layout Comes First (Not Products)

03 Planning and Layout | Roost Vans Webinar

Before beds, before cabinets—layout.

This determines:

  • How you move inside the van
  • How you store gear
  • Whether you enjoy using it

Step 4: Galley Width 

Why Galley Width Matters | Deep Thoughts With Dennis

This is one of those things people don’t think about… until it’s too late.

Too narrow = cramped walkway
Too wide = unusable kitchen

Step 5: How Builds Actually Work

Everything starts with a system, not random installs.

Watch how it comes together in real builds:

Core idea:

  • Structure first
  • Systems second
  • Finish last

Product Foundation: Smooth Rail Mounting System

Step 6: Real Build Examples

Full Custom Build: Roost Vans Build – Woods 

Simple / Budget-Friendly Build: Simple Promaster Van Build – Templin 

These show how decisions actually play out in real vans.

Step 7: Electrical 

Most people underestimate this. If I were you, I would read this blog first!

And here’s a great video on how to think about power capacity for van living:

Coming soon: LINK TO POWER VIDEO

Product: Power Panel (DIY Electrical Kit)

Step 8: Windows and Doors

Windows, frequently a big topic with numerous points of view (AKA opinions). Roost Vans personal opinion is windows all around, with insulated window covers and doorway bug screens. Reason? If we’re in a van, in a beautiful area, we want to see around while we are hanging out inside.

Some thoughts and common arguments:

  • Too much light while sleeping… Insulated window covers
  • Too much heat loss… Insulated window covers
  • Security… You have a front passenger and driver window that can be broken too.
  • I don’t want to be able to see outside… Okay, well that’s valid then.
  • I feel too exposed… Also valid, but window covers help alot.

We talk all about window placement and integration in this blog here!

Step 9: Heating, Cooling, and Climate

The first and most important aspect of managing the interior comfort in your box on wheels is ventilation. Vented windows paired with a vent fan is ideal and the minimum suggested setup for comfort on the road.

Reality:
Bad airflow = condensation, heat, and a miserable trip. And, just for fun we made this beautiful adornment to your vent fan. Check out the Roost Vent Fan Trim Ring.

After that, let’s talk Air Conditioning… Yes or No?

This decision will determine comfort. Read this blog here!

Step 10: Interior Systems (Beds, Cabinets, Storage)

Explore the full product ecosystem here: Roost Product Playlist

There are plenty of other products that we have in development that go in our in shop builds, getting fine tuned for DIY products. So, check out our YT Build Videos and reach out if you see something you like.

Key Products:

Everything mounts to our Smooth Rail Mounting System for maximum flexibility and security.

Step 11: DIY or Not?

Be honest. Why get something done faster and cheaper when you can do it yourself…? 🙂

If you’re still asking “where do I start?”, you may not be a DIY enthusiast. But, anything is possible if you put your mind to it, and we can help you on your journey. A lot.

Your options:

  • Full DIY
  • Hybrid (Roost products + your labor)
  • Full build

Want Help?

If you want to shortcut the trial and error and make sure your van gets done and out of the drive way, get a proposal for your build and book a spot in our Portland, OR shop.

If you want to move forward building your van yourself, checkout our products and mounting systems, and get busy. Our team of experts can help you along your journey.

Ready to elevate your van life? Visit us at http://roostvans.com and see how we can help you with your adventures!

Check out our other social channels here: https://linktr.ee/roostvans.com

Deep Thoughts on Planning and Layout

Planning a camper van layout sounds simple at first.

Put a bed in the back, maybe a kitchen along the side, add some storage and call it good.

But once you start working through the details—seating, sleeping arrangements, water, power, gear storage—you quickly realize that van layout design is really a process of prioritization and compromise.

At Roost Vans we’ve built well over a hundred vans over the years, and one of the biggest lessons we’ve learned is that the most functional layouts come from deciding what actually matters most, and not trying to fit everything into the van.

This article is a deeper dive into how we think about planning and layout when building camper vans.

Start With Priorities (Not Products)

The first question we ask customers has nothing to do with cabinetry or materials… It’s about how the van will be used.

Typically the priority list looks something like this:

  1. Seating
  2. Sleeping
  3. Kitchen / cooking
  4. Storage
  5. Power

Seating tends to be the biggest driver because it immediately affects how much usable floor space you have.

For example:

  • A second-row bench seat opens the van up for families, but takes up a significant footprint.
  • A two-person cab-only setup gives you far more design freedom.

Once seating is determined, the rest of the layout starts to take shape: Sleeping arrangements, kitchen size, and storage capacity all begin to revolve around that first decision.

And one thing becomes clear quickly: You can’t have everything. Even the longest Class B camper vans still have limited space.

Understanding Van Size Differences

Something that surprises a lot of people is how different van platforms affect layout options.

The three main vans we build in are:

Each one has slightly different dimensions.

For example:

  • The Sprinter 144 is one of the shortest vans in the category.
  • The Sprinter 170 is one of the longest.
  • The Transit 148 tends to fall somewhere in the middle but has the same wheel well placement. 

That wheel well and body length dramatically affects things like kitchen opportunity and living area size placement.

In some cases a Transit 148 regular can fit a two-module kitchen, while the comparable Sprinter 144 can fit a one-and-a-half module kitchen. Small dimensional differences can have big layout consequences.

Think in Zones

One of the easiest ways to conceptualize a van layout is by dividing the van into three zones:

1. Seating Zone

This is where people gather, eat, work, and relax.

For example:

A second-row bench seat paired with a Lagun articulating table mount can create a surprisingly large and flexible workspace. Check this video out of a Second Row seat we installed with our Lagun specialty mount.

By mounting the table to the seat frame rather than the wall, you can run a much larger tabletop without interfering with movement through the van. This gives both the passenger and driver the ability to use a table.

2. Kitchen Zone

The kitchen is usually the most debated part of a van build. Some people want a full galley with water systems, large counters, and refrigeration. Others want something much simpler.

Our most common kitchen options include:

Driver Side Kitchen Cabinet

Passenger Side Kitchen Cabinet

One of my favorite design tools is combining a kitchen with the Fu-Kit Bed System.

The front panel of the bed can flip up, allowing the countertop to extend underneath it. This creates a much larger workspace without permanently occupying floor space

A compact passenger-side kitchen cabinet with a flip-down table can also expand the living area dramatically, especially when paired with an awning like the Fiamma F45S.

3. Sleeping Zone

There are three common approaches to sleeping in vans:

Dinette beds 
Convert seating into a sleeping platform.

Elevated platform beds
Often with a garage underneath.

Hanging beds
Perfect for a bunk or bringing a motorcycle.

At Roost we commonly use our Fu-Kit Bed System or Strap-Up Bed System

The Strap-Up system is especially useful when you want sleeping space without permanently dedicating floor space to a bed.

You can sleep four people in a van while still keeping the living area usable during the day.

Storage and Garage Space

Garage space underneath the bed is often where large gear lives:

  • Bikes
  • Skis
  • Surfboards
  • Storage bins

Many people initially request sliding trays, but in practice we’ve found they’re not always necessary.

With a flip-up kit installed on our FU-Kit bed system, you can often access the entire garage area simply by lifting the bed panel.

This avoids the weight, cost, and complexity of large sliding trays.

Power Systems: Simplicity vs Complexity

Power systems are another area where simplicity can go a long way.

Traditional custom electrical systems involve:

  • Battery banks
  • Inverters
  • Solar controllers
  • Multiple electrical components
  • And a lot of crimped connections

A much simpler option we are using is portable power stations.

We commonly use:

Goal Zero power stations and the expandable EcoFlow Delta 3 Max Plus

These integrate:

  • Lithium batteries
  • Inverter
  • Charging: ‘Shore’, solar charging, and engine
  • Power management
  • A powerful 12v DC supply

All in one compact unit.

They can deliver roughly the equivalent of a 400Ah system in a much smaller footprint. You can read our deep thoughts on power blog for more information.

Design Tools That Help Layout

Beyond physical layout, we also use a few design tools when working with customers.

Mood Boards

A van can get visually busy very quickly. 

Between flooring, cabinetry, wall panels, upholstery, and hardware there are a lot of materials involved.

Creating a simple mood board helps determine:

  • How much bamboo paneling to show
  • Flooring styles
  • Color palettes
  • Fabric combinations

It helps keep the final design cohesive. 

Inset Panels

Inset wall panels are another useful design trick.

They can add 4–8 inches of usable interior width, which can be the difference between sleeping sideways or lengthwise.

And, this can eliminate the need for expensive external flares.

Different Layout Types

Over the years we’ve seen four main layout categories emerge.

Short Van With Multi-Seating

Best for families.

Often includes:

  • Second-row bench
  • Dinette
  • Strap-Up Bed
  • Compact kitchen

These builds prioritize seating and flexibility.

Long Van With Multi-Seating

The extra length allows:

  • Larger kitchens
  • Bigger garages
  • More storage
  • Dedicated workspaces

Families and adventure sports users often prefer this format.

Short Couple Vans

These are some of the most efficient layouts.

With no second-row seats, you gain space for:

  • Larger kitchens
  • Bigger benches
  • More cabinetry

Long Couple Vans

This is where layouts start to feel more like small apartments.

With a longer van body you can include:

  • Large dinettes and… 
  • Multiple lounging areas
  • Expanded kitchens
  • Dedicated workspaces

These builds are excellent for people living or working on the road.

The Biggest Layout Lesson

After designing hundreds of vans, the biggest takeaway is this:

Good layouts are intentional.

Trying to fit every possible feature into a van rarely works.

Instead, the best vans come from understanding how many people travel in the van; What activities the van supports; And how often those activities happen. From there, the design becomes much clearer.

Thinking About Your Own Van Layout?

If you’re planning a build and want help thinking through layout options, we’d love to help. Start with our products and build ecosystem here.

Smooth Rail Mounting System

Our modular mounting platform allows cabinetry, beds, and other components to be installed, removed, and reconfigured as your needs evolve.

Because your van should grow with your adventures, not limit them.

Watch the Full Planning Webinar

If you want to go deeper into this topic—including real van layout examples—we recently hosted a full webinar walking through dozens of builds and layout strategies.

You can watch the full presentation here: 

Deep Thoughts: On Power in Vans

Alright, let’s talk about power.

We’re going to be going over our Power Panel Ecosystem. Whether you’re getting the DIY kit or one of the kits we install here at Roost Vans, the core idea is the same: bring all your wiring into one central spot so you can control how power gets distributed throughout your van.

Think of Your Battery as a Cup

Let me break it down. Imagine your battery as a cup of water. That’s your power capacity. Filling that cup? That’s your recharge. Draining the cup, those are your power loads. And the size of the cup, that’s the size of your battery.

You typically have three recharge sources:

  • The Sun (solar)
  • Your Engine (while you’re driving)
  • Shore Power (when you’re plugged in)

Of those, your engine and shore power give you the biggest juice. Solar? Honestly, solar tends to be the third-best option. It’s restricted by clouds, roof space, and price per watt. And if you’ve got a vent fan or roof box up there, your solar footprint shrinks quick. 

But if you’re parking somewhere for five days and not driving? That’s when solar becomes your best friend. So it really depends on your trip style.

Power Needs: Big Draw vs. Small Draw

Here’s what I ask clients:

  1. What are you powering?
  2. How are you recharging it?

If you’re running big power draws, like an A/C unit, induction cooktop, hair dryer, or even a blender, we’ve got to plan around that. Even your fridge, which seems simple, is a constant draw making it important to get a quality fridge.

So, increase the battery size, or make sure it’s getting refilled. Often times it’s the Air Conditioner that is the big culprit. And in order to really accommodate that sufficiently. You are likely looking to invest about $10k to $15k apples to apples, specifically for the ability to power an Air Conditioner off grid for 8-12 hours. So, we suggest to our typical customers to wire the Air Conditioner in a way that it can be powered off of shore power. Then, if you know you are going somewhere hot, find a campground to plug into or bring a quiet Honda generator with you.

Smaller draws include:

  • LED lighting
  • Vent fan
  • Heater (that uses a fuel tap)
  • Water pump
  • Laptop

Most folks fall into that smaller-draw category. Very few actually need the big battery setups they think they do.

Personally, I like a 200 amp-hour battery (~2400 watts). It’s the sweet spot in the camper van, out for a couple days use case. It’s just enough capacity, can recharge from the engine, shore power, and solar if needed. Add a couple of solar panels, and you’re looking at a solid 3-day or longer camping rig for most people.

Also worth noting: most of us are parking in the shade. So again, solar might not pull the weight you want unless you’re strategic.

The Power Panel Kit: What It Is

Let’s look at the actual Power Panel Kit:

  • Power Panel itself which contains:
    • Distribution block to powers 12V systems (lights, fans, etc.)
    • Inputs for shore power, solar, and engine power
    • Connections for the Roost EZ Connect Cable
    • Jumper Cable
  • Switch Plate (on a 6ft leads from the Power Panel)
    • 3 light dimmers
    • 3 auxiliary switches
    • DC outlet with dual USB port insert
    • Location for Espar Easy Start Pro thermostat placement (not included)

The Jumper Cable allows you to power your loads straight from your engine battery if you remove your power station. Say you take it inside for charging? No problem. Just don’t forget to turn your lights off unless you want a dead starter.

Accessories Available:

  • Highly Recommended > Charge Lines and Installation Kit: all your lines (solar, shore, ground, engine), ties, protectors, sleeves, sealants, and clips
  • Goal Zero EZ Connect wiring harness (for the X-series). Our first choice
  • Bare End EZ Connect wiring harness that connects your choice of power station ↔ power station. You will need to crimp and engineer this yourself
  • AC Outlet Extension (household power extension)

We tried to think of everything so your install goes smooth.

Real-World Install Example

We dropped a Goal Zero 1000X in a cabinet with the link module and the easy-connect harness. You can see the power panel snugged right against the wall, clean and tight. From there, you bring in all your loads (lights, fans, etc.) to the distribution block on the power panel.

And when you’re ready for cabinetry, you can mount the switch panel to the front, passenger side, driver side, wherever works best. That’s the flexibility we built in.

Plus, there’s a 120V inlet option as part of our AC Outlet Extension Accessory that can be wired in the wall. You can plug an extension cord from your inverter into that inlet, which feeds power through to another outlet you can install in the van. Don’t need it? No problem. But if you want it, it’s a readily available accessory.

A Clean Solution for Real Life

In one of our recent builds, we installed the power panel behind a Goal Zero 6000X. All the wiring and switches are right there. Want dimmable lighting? Easy. Want to hide the main panel but have access for maintenance? Done.

We use a cigarette-style plug for USB-B/C or whatever the current tech is. That’s by design. Technology changes, and we want you to be able to pull the USB plug and upgrade without a total overhaul.

Final Thoughts

The Power Panel Ecosystem is built to simplify van wiring. You still have some work involved, this isn’t magic. But the lions share is done. It pulls everything into one spot, gives you switch control, and offers a clean, expandable, and future-proof way to handle power in your van.

And, it’s available now on our website.